Introducing the Leopard Gecko
The leopard gecko (Eublepharus macularius) can grow up to 25-35cms (10-14 inches) and it comes from Middle Eastern countries such as Iran and Pakistan. In the wild it tends to live in rocky outcrops, deserts and mountainous areas.
A leopard gecko can live for 8-12 years. Most adult leopard geckos are yellow, light brown and black with extruded scales, which makes them look like they are covered with small warts. Their tail is fat and less bumpy than the rest of their body, while their skin is very soft and dry to touch.
Setting up and caging
In the wild leopard geckos aren’t very sociable, so it isn’t fair to cram several of them in a small vivarium as they like to have some space to themselves. For two adults a vivarium with approximately 60 x 40 x 40 cm (24 x 16 x 16 inches) of space is enough. Height is not that important as although leopard geckos may occasionally climb logs this is not a common habit.
Ventilation and humidity
You must have some sort of ventilation in your vivarium. This is not only for the gecko’s sake but for yours, as the glass will steam up and make you unable to see inside. A simple way to ventilate your vivarium is to drill holes in the sides and back. These holes must be small enough to ensure that your gecko (and its food) doesn’t escape and big enough so that sufficient fresh air will enter. Without ventilation, the humidity will rise leading to bacterial and fungal infections in your gecko. A suitable humid ity level is between 20 and 30 per cent. It is a good idea to put some moss (sphagnum is preferable) in a corner and spray it with water regularly to keep the humidity level right.
Heating
Most reptiles are unable to regulate their body temperature, so – in the wild – they have to make do with basking in the sun and cooling in the shade. Therefore heating is an extremely important factor in a vivarium.
The average temperature should be between 25ºC and 29ºC (about 84ºF). It is suitable to drop the temperature – by turning off the lights – during the night, as this is similar to desert conditions.
Heat mats are the best way of heating your vivarium but heat lamps are also ideal. A heat mat should be placed under the substrate and a heat lamp must be out of direct reach of the gecko otherwise it may damage its skin. You should keep one end of the vivarium warm and the other less warm and more humid. This way, the gecko can decide what is best for it.
Lighting
Leopard geckos are nocturnal, which means that lighting is not essential. If you wish to view them at night, when they are most active, a red light will be needed as the geckos can’t detect this colour and will think it is dark.
In the wild leopard geckos aren’t very sociable, so it isn’t fair to cram several of them in a small vivarium
as they like to have some space to themselves.
as they like to have some space to themselves.
Many people think sand is the best option but actually it’s terrible for the gecko! When crickets and other live food run about in sand, it sticks to their body, and when the gecko eats the food it also ingests the sand. This can result in impaction (when sand blocks the digestive system) or the sand can cut the lining of the stomach. Both of these conditions can be fatal.
You could use newspaper but this doesn’t give the same desert effect as other substrates. Wood chip or wood shavings are adequate to use but make sure there is no sawdust in these as this can have the same effects as sand. Bark chippings are also available but you must be careful with these, as uncleaned chippings have been known to harbour parasites. To counter this put the chippings in a microwave for about two minutes.
If not damp, peat moss will do but it doesn’t look that much like a desert substrate. Corncob granules are an extremely good substrate as they look like sand but don’t stick to the food so they don’t cause health problems associated with real sand. There is a downside to these, however, as they are quite costly and are not as easily available as other substrates.
Decoration
The main thing to remember when decorating the vivarium is that geckos are shy and require as many hiding places as possible. Caves are a nice addition and they also provide hiding places. Plastic plants are probably better than real plants as they are easier to clean.
Feeding your gecko
Leopard geckos are completely carnivorous and will eat live food and no plant matter. They will, however, eat dead food, which is moved around to look like it is alive. In the wild, they will eat mostly invertebrates, although sometimes they may also consume small rodents. These are not always available in the pet industry so their diet will consist mainly of crickets, locusts, mealworms and pinkies (frozen, day-old baby mice). Putting live food in the vivarium is essential for the gecko, as this will provide exercise and stimulation for them.
Crickets are the most common form of food for geckos as they provide reasonable nutritional value and are normally available from most pet shops dealing with reptiles. Crickets come in different sizes so it is advisable to feed nothing bigger than the gecko’s head. Locusts are bigger than crickets and slightly more expensive. They should be used as an occasional treat because they are less nutritious than crickets.
Mealworms are larvae of the flour beetle and aren’t very nutritious at all. The worms will pupate into beetles and not many geckos will eat these. (The pupation process can be slowed by keeping the larvae cool.)
Pinkies must be de-frosted by leaving them at room temperature for about 30 minutes – do not use a microwave as they will explode. They then need to be fed to the gecko by hand but be careful – a leopard gecko’s bite can be painful.
All food should be supplemented with vitamins. You can do this in a number of ways:
- enhancing the food with a vitamin-enriched substance;
- adding vitamin-rich liquid to the gecko’s water;
- dusting the prey with vitamin powder.
Although geckos get most of the liquid they require from their food, fresh water should always be available.
Geckos do not particularly like being handled, although they will tolerate it – and the more you handle it, the more tolerant it will become. Once on your hand, a gecko will sometimes crawl up your arm and sit on your shoulder. But don’t forget it’s there, as a fall from shoulder height onto a solid surface could result in death for your gecko.
Geckos will sometimes try to run away from you (normally into a dark area) and it can be tempting to grab them by the tail. This is not a good idea as the tail will probably come off in your hand! This is a defence mechanism used in the wild while running away from a predator. The tail will grow back but it will never look the same.
Cleaning
Geckos keep themselves very clean, although they do have to go to the toilet. They normally designate one area of the vivarium for their toilet. This is handy when it comes to cleaning the tank, as you only have to remove a bit of the substrate along with the faeces. You will only have to scrub the entire vivarium down every two months. This includes scrubbing the vivarium walls, cleaning any plants and putting a whole new layer of substrate down. (Remember, it’s safer not to use any cleaning agents.)
Health care
The most common cause of disease is due to unclean water and contact with stale faeces. Captive-bred geckos are less likely to contract many diseases but those that are caught in the wild may be more susceptible.
Cuts and grazes can be treated with iodine-based solutions. This can be obtained from your vet or the pet store. If the wound becomes infected – this is generally depicted by swelling and/or mucus coming out of the wound – you should consult your vet. Stitches may be needed in the larger cuts and your vet can do this.
Skin shedding
During the process of skin shedding, some patches may remain. If they are discovered early and are still moist they will be easy to peel off. If the patches are dry, you may have to bath the gecko and then gently remove the excess skin. Sometimes patches of skin will be left on the feet and toes (if this does happen then it may look like your gecko is wearing a silvery glove). This can result in the loss of toes or even the whole foot as the extra skin will cut off the circulation. Again, it can be removed if it is still moist but you may need to bathe the foot. If it doesn’t come off easily, do not try to forcibly remove the skin as this can result in serious injury to the gecko.
Remember, before taking one of these pets on, you need to be sure that you are ready for the commitment – it has been known for well-cared for leopard geckos to live up to twenty years!
The veterinary mental health charity Vetlife is inviting the veterinary community to join it for a sponsored cold-water dip.
