Frogs for Beginners
Pet frogs differ greatly from frogs found in our garden ponds and wildlife. Owing to their origin, frogs bred in captivity need a specific climate and environment to survive.
If you’re thinking of buying a pet frog, you need to first consider how you plan to provide and maintain a suitable habitat and whether you would be comfortable feeding your frog the diet it depends on. Frogs, like most amphibians, are carnivores and depend on the availability of live feed. You need to feel comfortable ‘housing’ and dispensing bugs such as crickets and mealworms, which are available from certain pet or aquatic centres.
The frog’s life span should also be taken into consideration. Records show that the general age of a frog in captivity is between four and 15 years, so you should be prepared to care for your frog for quite some time! It is also worth asking yourself what you actually expect from a pet frog. Sometimes, frogs are neglected or returned because they do not satisfy the owner’s preconceptions. Although smaller frogs are generally more active, most frogs are sedentary and prefer to sit still all day, rather than jump around for the enjoyment of their owner.
What frog?
There are over 3,900 species of tailless amphibians in the world, so knowing where to start can be somewhat daunting. A popular frog for the beginner is the White’s Tree Frog (Litoria caerulea) also known as the ‘Dumpy Frog’ or ‘Smiling Frog’.
Originating from Australia, the White’s Tree Frog is not actually white. Its colour can in fact vary from green to brown or turquoise and its skin is of a waxy appearance, which makes it look rather plump! The White’s Tree Frog is relatively large. Males usually grow up to 10cms (4 inches) in length whereas females have been known to grow as long as 14cms (5.5 inches)! With the right care and handling, the White’s Tree Frog can also become tame enough to eat food from your hand, but handling should be kept to a minimum.
There are over 3,900 species of tailless amphibians in the world.
As its name suggests, the White’s Tree Frog is an arboreal frog, which means that it spends most of its time high up in branches. The tank should be roughly 60cms (2 feet) high (approximately 20 gallons) and packed full of plants and hollow branches. The substrate at the base of the tank should be filled with soft bark and logs. It is important not to buy bark that is dusty or includes small chips as this can be harmful to the frog if swallowed whilst eating.
You can place a decorative array of plants in the tank for both you and your frog’s pleasure. Although both artificial and live plants can be used, both come with their own precautions. Artificial plants need to be washed thoroughly before being placed in the tank and checked for sharp points and wires or fabric dye that may run when the plant is sprayed or doused in water. If you decide to use live plants you need to research whether each plant is compatible with your frog and whether it will prosper in the tank environment. Live plants can be positioned in their pots or in the tank base using special chemical-free substrate.
Your frog will need a good-sized water dish at the bottom of the tank, which should accommodate its size if it wants to spread out in the water. The dish should be roughly 15-20cms (6-8 inches) long and wide, by 10-12cms (4-5 inches) deep. Care should be taken not to fill the base too deep as your frog, especially baby frogs, can drown in deep water.
The water that you use for both your frog and the tank plants must be treated. Using normal tap water can harm or even kill your frog owing to its chlorine content, and it is advisable to always use de-chlorification products to ensure that the water is completely harmless.
White’s Tree Frogs prefer a certain type of temperature in their habitat. During the day they like a temperature of 26-32°C and at night-time a drop to 20-24°C. Temperature can be controlled easily by either a small heat lamp, which should be placed out of the frogs range, or a heat mat placed on the side or under one half of the tank. Tank humidity should be approximately 30-50 per cent, maintained easily by misting water lightly each day. It is also worth placing temperature and humidity gauges in the tank to help you monitor these levels correctly.
Diet
The right diet is essential for your frog’s longevity. White’s Tree Frogs enjoy live insects such as crickets, locusts, moths and beetles, but care must be taken with all food to ensure your pet is not overfed; White’s Tree Frogs are notoriously greedy and can get very fat! To ensure that your frog receives the best nutrition, his dinner should be dusted with special powder that contains nutrients and vitamins.
Cleaning
Like all pet enclosures, your frog’s tank should be regularly cleaned to prevent a build-up of bacteria and disease. All areas which include defecation and dead feed should be removed and cleaned thoroughly on a regular basis.
Introducing new frogs
Once you’ve grown accustomed to caring for one frog you may find that you would like to add another to the tank. This can be done, but mixing frog species is not advised as diseases can spread easily from one species to another and the skin secretions of one frog may cause harm to another. It is best to introduce same species frogs to your enclosure, after a reasonable quarantine period. Quarantining your new frog will allow you to detect any diseases or illnesses that may be passed onto your existing frog. Allow a minimum of 30 days before introduction.
With the right care and attention your frog will thrive and provide you with an interesting and enjoyable pet. Many beginner frog owners develop into keen herpetologists and move on to more complex and challenging frogs. Frog keeping as a hobby, however, should be reserved for the enthusiast who can offer the commitment and care owed to these fascinating species.
Joanne Webster, a professor of parasitic diseases at the RVC, has been elected as a Fellow of the Royal Society (FRS).
